Question 1

What types of growth factors are there?

Accepted Answer

There are many types of growth factors in the human body, but there are a select few that are relevant to skin health. The most well-known is epidermal growth factor, or EGF. “EGF helps with healing, cell survival and growth, and cell migration,” Dr. Moy says. The signals sent by EGF help repair cellular damage while working to increase levels of collagen and elastin. Fibroblast growth factor, or FGF, is key to skin structure as it activates your skin’s fibroblasts—the cells that produce collagen and elastin. “Certain forms, like FGF-2 or basic FGF, have been shown to aid in tissue repair and improve healing outcomes after dermatologic procedures,” Dr. Park adds. IGF (insulin-like growth factor) is known to promote tissue repair, and TGF (transforming growth factor) simultaneously promotes collagen synthesis while helping to regulate inflammation.

What makes growth factor serums complex is that you may not actually see these acronyms on product packaging even if a product is called a “growth factor serum.” A common ingredient category you’ll see instead is peptides. “Many products feature biologically active peptides that mimic growth factor effects but are not true growth factors,” Dr. Kahn explains. Peptides are made up of amino acids—the building blocks of protein—and can also act as chemical messengers or as precursors for collagen and elastin, Dr. Moy says. Peptides often used as growth factor substitutes include copper peptides (which promote firmer skin while fighting inflammation), Matrixyl (enhances collagen production), and acetyl hexapeptide-8 a.k.a. argireline, sometimes referred to as “Botox in a bottle” due to its wrinkle-smoothing properties.

Peptides aren’t the only type of ingredient used in lieu of growth factors, either. There’s also human conditioned media—which is exactly what it sounds like, material that has been cultivated in a lab using human-derived cells (usually fibroblasts or stem cells). According to Dr. Park, human conditioned media contain a blend of growth factors, cytokines, and other beneficial proteins that can support skin renewal—“a ‘soup’ of nutrient-rich fluid,” Dr. Kahn adds. Human conditioned media, peptides, and growth factors (real or synthetic) all work synergistically, so feel free to experiment with a formula that contains a hearty blend of these ingredients.

Question 2

Do growth factor serums really work?

Accepted Answer

Growth factor serums can work, but their efficacy depends on a handful of aspects, including the ingredient source (Dr. Moy notes that growth factors can be synthetic, human-derived, or even sourced from plants or snails), formulation stability, and delivery system. “Products must be stabilized and formulated in a way that allows these large protein molecules to remain active and penetrate the skin barrier,” Dr. Park explains. For this reason, most people see the best results from using a growth factor serum after a professional treatment like laser or microneedling, when skin channels are open and ready to receive these regenerative actives. They’re also a valuable part of a tretinoin skincare routine. Regardless, you’ll need to be patient: Even if you’re using the best growth factor serum on the market, results build with time. And, of course, don’t skip your sunscreen—as your growth factor serum works to repair existing damage, you’ll want to avoid incurring more!

Question 3

Who should use growth factors?

Accepted Answer

Most people are a candidate for using a growth factor serum, but it’s especially a good idea to start if you’re noticing early signs of aging, have sensitive skin, a compromised skin barrier, or are looking for something to use after a professional treatment. “Many growth factor serums are designed to be non-irritating compared to stronger ingredients like retinoids and provide gentle regenerative support,” Dr. Park says. However, if you’re pregnant, breastfeeding, have an active skin infection, or skin cancer, you should avoid growth factor serums, just out of an abundance of caution. Growth factors are biologically active and many active ingredients aren’t tested for compatibility with pregnancy; considering they promote cell signaling and proliferation, there is a risk that growth factors could increase abnormal or uncontrolled cell growth.

Question 4

Are growth factors better than retinol?

Accepted Answer

Neither of these ingredients are better than the other. “Retinols and growth factors are both great, and work via different mechanisms—they’re both valuable and I like alternating between them” Dr. Moy says. Remember, vitamin A actively works to speed up cellular turnover and boosts collagen production, but growth factors accelerate turnover by telling your skin cells to repair themselves. The former can work reasonably quickly, but can irritate skin, while the latter is gentle and takes more time to deliver visible results. “Together, they can be a powerful duo: retinol for resurfacing, and growth factors for rebuilding and repair,” Dr. Park suggests.

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